In midsummer, this corner of North Devon feels like three distinct moods linked by sunlight and sea breeze: Bideford, with its historic bridge and easy river rhythm; Appledore, a pastel estuary village where narrow lanes, artists’ studios, and fishing cottages create a soft, timeless charm; and Westward Ho!, forever carrying the playful echo of Rudyard Kipling, whose childhood here still lingers in the dunes and story‑like coastline. The village’s famously quirky signs — from bold exclamation marks to humorous warnings and seaside oddities — add a lighthearted touch as surfers, families, and walkers spread across the long Atlantic beach. Moving between the three in a single summer day feels like watching the coast shift personality: from river calm to estuary quiet to full ocean energy.